Floataway Cafe
Another wonderful restaurant memory: Floataway Cafe, on an industrial side street near the Emory campus. We were so sad when it closed in 2022; we had come to think of it as our special neighborhood restaurant, even though we didn’t really live in the neighborhood. It was close enough, though - and it always felt like a special occasion, even when we're just stopping by for a lovely weeknight meal. Over the years, we enjoyed sharing Floataway with friends and family (always a hit), but our favorite evenings were when we've settled in at table #36 (our favorite) for a relaxing few hours of much-needed conversation and much-loved food. Here’s a particular vivid memory from a few years ago.
Partly in honor of the start of the new school year and partly in realization that our free time was about to be extremely limited - we ventured out to Floataway on a rainy Thursday night and, as we were welcomed inside the curtained entrance portal, we instantly felt at home.
Floataway was part of the Star Provisions group, led by James Beard award-winning (and now Michelin-starred) Atlanta chef and restaurateur Anne Quatrano. (Floataway was often referred to as the little sister of Quatrano's renowned fine dining jewel, Bachanalia, another must-visit for any Atlantan seeking a truly luxurious dining experience.) Located on secluded Zonolite Road - near Briarcliff, near Emory - among a stretch of converted warehouses, Floataway was absolutely tucked away - and that was part of the charm: first you had to find it, like a hidden treasure.
While the menu always promised seasonal fare inspired by France, Italy, and the Mediterranean, there were some mainstays that were must-orders: the Gulf Blue Crab Fritter, a giant crunchy-soft orb of crab and spices; the Piccolo Fritto, a satisfying fried mound of onions, lemons, squash, and calamari; and the Casarecce, toothsome twisted pasta served with savory veal meatballs, marinara, and parmesan.
On our last visit, we shared two delicious starters - Crispy Squash Blossoms stuffed with ricotta and served alongside a candied tomato jam (that would also be tasty slathered on bread) and a Marinated Beet Salad with pistachios, goat cheese, avocado, and grapefruit. Both were excellent.
For the main course I did not hesitate to order one of my favorite Floataway creations - Roasted Chicken with Bread Salad. I find it stupendously delicious - the roasted chicken is placed atop a lightly dressed salad of soft lettuces and crunchy chunks of croutons, allowing the drippings to soften and enhance the greens and bread underneath. Mister Plow went for adventure and ordered the whole-roasted Loup de Mer, a hearty Mediterranean sea bass stuffed with lemons and onions and topped with bright salsa verde. Yet again, both were excellent.
Often we ask for one dessert with two forks, but that is never the case at Floataway Cafe because all the desserts are spectacular. Mister Plow went for his favorite, the Warm Toffee Pudding with vanilla gelato. I satisfied my sweet tooth with a wonderfully satisfying Buttermilk Tart, tangy and silky and accompanied by fresh blueberries and peaches. Guess what? Both were excellent!
Precious memories - how they linger!
